The hallmarks of a quality shoe
When you're looking for a quality shoe, it's important to recognize the markers that make the difference. Just as they say the devil is in the details, the same holds true for quality.
Whether it's the leather (I), the construction (II), or the various components of a shoe (III), let's explore these indicators together to help you make informed choices and invest in footwear that will faithfully accompany you through the passage of time.
THE LEATHER
While animal leather generally stands out in terms of durability compared to synthetic and fabric materials, the assumption that a leather shoe is necessarily of high quality doesn't always hold true. The leather market is extensive, and not all hides are equal. The quality of the leather is indeed a primary indicator of quality, so it's important to ensure that it is of premium grade to make it a determining factor in the value of the shoe. But how can you identify high-quality leather?
TANNERIES A GUARANTEE OF QUALITY
Tanneries, serve as an initial assurance. Some of them with a global reputation possess traditional expertise that has been passed down through generations.
At 7L, we have chosen to work exclusively with European Tanneries renowned for their heritage, such as Weinheimer Leder (Germany), Stead (England), du Puy (France), and Biessuno (Italy).
These tanneries have a long history in the leather industry and carefully select hides based on numerous criteria, including the animal's age, grain, skin thickness, and the animal's origin.
Meticulous attention is also given to the tanning process. They adhere to strict European standards, which compel them to combine innovation and tradition to produce environmentally and health-conscious, high-quality leather. Many tanneries outside the EU produce leather that can be more or less hazardous due to the chemicals used in the tanning process.
However, while the tannery is a quality indicator, it doesn't tell the whole story. Tanneries often offer different grades of leather, typically categorized as A, B, and C, from most to least premium. Faced with these practices, which independent Houses and private labels encounter, it may be preferable to choose a lesser-known European tannery that provides grade A leather rather than settling for grade B or C from a renowned tannery.
Between origin, tanneries, and leather grades, everything is not as straightforward. Let's explore the intrinsic characteristics of the leather, such as its smell, feel, and appearance, to ensure its quality and nobility.
LEATHER APPEARANCE
At 7L, we have chosen to work exclusively with European Tanneries renowned for their heritage, such as Weinheimer Leder (Germany), Stead (England), du Puy (France), and Biessuno (Italy).
These tanneries have a long history in the leather industry and carefully select hides based on numerous criteria, including the animal's age, grain, skin thickness, and the animal's origin.
Meticulous attention is also given to the tanning process. They adhere to strict European standards, which compel them to combine innovation and tradition to produce environmentally and health-conscious, high-quality leather. Many tanneries outside the EU produce leather that can be more or less hazardous due to the chemicals used in the tanning process.
Let's take a moment to consider the difference between full-grain leather and corrected grain leather. The first is made from the uppermost layer of the animal's hide. Its main outer surface is preserved, which explains the presence of these imperfections. The second is a type of leather that undergoes a correction process to smooth out its imperfections.
No doubt, full-grain leather is much more durable than corrected or even bonded leather
We made an exception by choosing bonded leather for the Ivy loafer because it offers advantages that should not be overlooked.
The shoe has a uniform and elegant appearance. It is also perfect for wearing on rainy days.
Focus on full-grain leather
The aniline finish
The aniline finish is a very high-end finish. Leather is made from high-quality hides, which are treated with a colorless, oily solution that oxidizes when exposed to air, forming a fine resin that deeply nourishes the leather. The surface retains its natural state but is protected by a film.
The semi-aniline finish
The semi-aniline finish uses the same oily solution but adds pigments to lightly tint the leather. The protection is enhanced, but the appearance of the leather is slightly less natural, as the original surface is partially covered. This finish remains one of the highest quality options on the market.
Pigmented full-grain leather
Pigmented full-grain leather is a finish that retains the full thickness of the hide. A pigmented varnish solution is applied to obscure the surface, masking certain defects. The appearance of the leather is slightly less natural, but it becomes easier to maintain and gains in durability.
Corrected full-grain leather with a pigmented finish
Corrected full-grain leather with a pigmented finish is a finish where a light sanding process is used to eliminate the original defects in the leather. A pigmented solution is also applied, in a more opaque manner, eliminating the natural appearance of the leather. Its resistance and elasticity have also slightly decreased. The leather now has an artificial grain pattern or a smooth topcoat that may soften over time, making maintenance easier.
THE SHOE ASSEMBLY
If leather is the first marker of a shoe's quality, one must not overlook the shoe's construction. This step in the design of a shoe, which aims to securely attach the sole to the rest of the shoe, will determine its longevity. Each construction method has its merits, with the most important factor being the craftsmanship applied to each of them.
We have already covered the different types of constructions in a previous article, so we won't go into detail about all the existing constructions here. Let's focus primarily on the distinction between two major categories of constructions: stitched and glued.
The glued construction, also known as cemented, does not involve stitching. It involves directly attaching the upper to the insole using a water-insoluble adhesive. While there have been advancements in glued constructions, they do not offer the same level of durability as a stitched construction.
However, glued constructions can be suitable for lightweight shoes or sneakers, but we always recommend prioritizing a stitched construction for formal footwear. This is especially important because a stitched construction allows you to resole your shoes, thereby extending their lifespan.
Among the diversity of existing constructions, the Goodyear welt construction provides waterproofing and strength due to its additional stitching, which also allows for resoling. These characteristics are also shared with the Norwegian welt construction. In contrast, the Blake construction is more flexible, a quality that offers other advantages such as comfort In reality, each construction method has its advantages, and one may not necessarily be better than the other. Find all the advantages and disadvantages of the various types of constructions in our article
THE SEAMS
Let's now focus on seams, a significant element of a shoe's construction. This is a detail that should be closely examined, as the quality of seams will impact the lifespan of your shoes. Poorly done seams may not hold up well, so pay close attention to this detail.
Stitches should be clean and tight. To recognize strong seams, there's no secret; you need to inspect them. The first thing to check is the distance between stitches. Regular and tight stitches (more or less) are a sign of a high-quality shoe.
At 7L, we take pride in offering over 5 stitches per centimeter on upper seams and 4 stitches per centimeter on finer seams, for example.
Earlier, we discussed the fact that even the finest quality leather can have imperfections since it comes from animals. Similarly, even excellent quality handcrafted stitches may exhibit some irregularities. Handcrafted work may not be as visually perfect as machine-produced work. Don't let small irregularities stop you; they are evidence of artisanal craftsmanship.
THE SHOE components
A shoe is composed of several components, each of which is essential. Each of these components must be of high quality for the finished product to be of high quality as well.
Double wooden pegging
The double wooden pegging technique we employ is an additional element in the quality of a shoe. Aesthetically, you won't see any difference since it's hidden, but it is essential.
This method involves marrying the outsole to the metal shank with the help of wooden pegs to give it texture. It ensures the shank stays in place and contributes to arch support. This technique is only used for leather soles and would serve no purpose on a rubber sole.
THE HEEL BLOCK
The work on the heel is also of great importance. Our heel blocks are constructed in layers of leather. Thin layers of leather are carefully stacked and glued together to create the shoe's heel. The result is a much stronger heel than a hollow one. Each individually isolated block is also easier to replace over time, which extends the life of your shoes.
It is also important to be attentive to the space between the heel block and the shoe counter. This space should be as small as possible, indicating a well-crafted shoe.
THE Closed channel stitching
Beyond the exceptionally clean appearance that gives the shoe a sense of true elegance, a closed channel sole serves to protect the stitched sole. During its creation, the groove in which the fine stitching has been done is folded over, safeguarding the thread from direct contact with the ground.
Brass nails
We offer 7 brass nails on each leather sole. These nails add the finishing touch to the shoe and protect the front of the sole during the initial wears. It's a carefully considered manufacturing detail but not intended to stay. It is necessary to replace them later with an embedded iron piece. We invite you to read our guide on irons and sole protectors to learn more.
LEATHER TRIMMING
This operation involves removing material by sanding the edges of the piece before assembly. As the edges become thinner, it reduces the bulk when they are overlapped. Well-executed leather trimming increases the lifespan of the shoes and significantly contributes to their aesthetics.
At 7L, we pay great attention to this finishing process to offer impeccably finished shoes.
stiff toe cap
The toe cap, as the name suggests, should be rigid. The degree of rigidity can vary depending on the type of shoe; for example, sports shoes do not require an overly stiff toe cap.
However, for formal shoes, it's sometimes possible to find flexible toe caps, mainly for flexibility and comfort. We believe this is a mistake. This part of the shoe should be able to withstand impacts to protect the foot and to provide structural support to prevent the shoe from sagging or deforming over time.
the convex shape of the sole
The outer sole should have a convex shape in the middle, forming a slight arch under the shoe.
This convex shape not only helps in walking but also helps direct the wear and tear of the sole towards its center, protecting the fine stitching that goes around the sole.
IN CONCLUSION
The crafting of shoes is an artisanal process that involves over 200 hand interventions. It's impossible to expect a finished shoe to be flawless and entirely free of minor imperfections.
Rather than dwelling on these details for too long, it's better to understand and recognize the markers of quality for shoes that stand the test of time.
